To be enchanted and enamoured by waves is a tell-tale symptom of the surfer’s condition…
Waves are essentially pulses of unfathomable energy transmuted from the heavens to the ocean by the power of sustained winds and storm systems. Travelling thousands of miles across the deep blue, this energy is often subtle and unremarkable, that is until it finally approaches a coastline, and first begins to drag along the rising seabed below.
With nowhere to go other than forward and upward, this energy pushes the water towards the sky, creating swell lines in a pattern of liquid corduroy. The closer these lines get to land, the steeper and taller they become until, eventually, they reach a point of no return and implode breaking over their own foundations. For wave watchers, this is where the magic happens.
Similar in form but inexplicably different, no two waves are exactly the same, a perfect example of nature’s incredible ability to create and recreate with unlimited variety. This may be why those who feel connected and drawn to the power of the ocean can sit for hours by the shore just watching the waves pitching up and breaking apart, refracting off rocks and combining with other waves, recycling and dispersing energy in a steady unstoppable flow.